In Paris, designers revisited the past to rework archival pieces for the next generation. A fan favorite, Chanel’s 90s throwback show embraced nostalgia and reclaimed some of the popular vintage styles that are currently circulating the secondhand market. At Chanel and beyond, underwear became the new outerwear as skin-baring styles continued the conversation around body confidence and sexy exposure.
21st Century Woman
“I’ve been talking for a long time about making a shift, embracing a new generation, a new world,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli of the inspiration behind his most recent Valentino collection. In Paris, designers embraced the next generation of consumers with archival remakes and casual styling. Transported back to a golden period for the brand, Chanel offered midriff-baring essentials in an upbeat show reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s supermodel extravaganzas in the 90s. Miu Miu cropped tops and shortened hemlines for a youthful take on office dressing.
The Art of Undressing
“All these pieces are entirely braided, knotted, and laced by hand. There’s no sewing at all. It’s really body formatted.” Ludovic de Saint Sernin highlighted the art of undressing with a collection that showed underwear as outerwear. At Acne Studios, reworked corsets, fitted skirts, and sheer cover ups showcased skin with a focus on texture, detail, and craftsmanship. Body conscious styles and strappy dresses struck a balance between revealing and concealing at Ottolinger, where a DIY approach took center stage.
In response to the monotony of lockdown dressing, designers expressed their desire to go to extremes with fantasy and surrealism. Matthew Williams offered experimental garment construction and styling at Givenchy, while Issey Miyake continued to explore new techniques like Link Rings and Fluidity Loop. “We did all kinds of crazy experiments—handmade smocking, fluffy things, jacquards, silks. Different types of sparkle—different shine, depths of glimmer. All this stuff,” said Dries Van Noten of his Spring 2022 collection. Daniel Roseberry embraced the surreal aesthetic of house founder Elsa Schiaparelli in a collection of cone bras, floral fabric twists, and inflatable jackets.
Catsuits were a favorite among designers in Paris this season, appearing at Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Balmain, Acne Studios, and Stella McCartney. The versatility of the style shined through as models sported catsuits in varying materials, prints, and necklines. Searches for unitards are +126% to last year and market adoption is +12% in the last 30 days. Jumpsuits are also on the rise–searches are up +13% to last year.
On the runway, youthful styling was a priority and chunky jewelry emerged as the season’s must-have accessory. At Chanel, models wore layered chain necklaces at varying lengths. Both Givenchy and Dior featured chunky rings, and Rokh presented an eye-catching charm necklace that spelled out the brand’s name in bold lettering. Searches for chunky rings are +47% to last year and market adoption is up +10% in the last 30 days. In addition, searches for chunky chains are +11% to last year and searches for charm necklaces are +10% to last year.
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