“I’ve been talking for a long time about making a shift, embracing a new generation, a new world,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli of the inspiration behind his most recent Valentino collection. In Paris, designers embraced the next generation of consumers with archival remakes and casual styling. Transported back to a golden period for the brand, Chanel offered midriff-baring essentials in an upbeat show reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s supermodel extravaganzas in the 90s. Miu Miu cropped tops and shortened hemlines for a youthful take on office dressing.

Innovative construction techniques and custom-made prints brought futuristic craftsmanship to the runway. At Tod’s, Walter Chiapponi introduced “technical decorativism,” working knitwear into a diamond pattern and adding sharp pleats to simple A-line dresses. Historically known for firm silhouettes, designers at Sunnei introduced flourishes of beading and fringe that complemented delicate watercolor-like prints and abstract floral motifs. Colville also embraced the art of printmaking, tapping artist Blue Farrier to paint bold prints for their collection.

Cut out silhouettes, strappy bodysuits, and revealing dresses were central to the runway this season. On the heels of her LVMH prize win, Nensi Dojaka showcased what she does best, fusing lingerie and daywear by layering sheer, strappy materials in a celebration of the female body. Supriya Lele and KNWLS also embraced the trend toward body confidence and subversive sexiness, relying on cutaway fabrics and waist-snatching bustiers, respectively.